18.-21.11.09: Salta, Cachi, Cafayate

(Disclaimer: the following accounts – and pictures – are not suitable for vegetarians… )

Initially we wanted to travel south in Chile from San Pedro de Atacama – but seeing the prices, and also considering that southern Chile still was a bit chilly and hopefully would warm up a bit in a few weeks, we decided to venture through northern Argentina to Iguazu and Rio first. Also I had not seen anything of northern Argentina in my last travels, so we came to see Salta and its sourroundings. And what a luck, it’s beautiful there! We could have easily spent a full week there too, so we only had 3 days on our schedule – and decided it was best to rent a car for 2 days and drive south to Cafayate and back on another route, both amazing. Or well, actually that was Gaëlle’s idea, the french girl we had met with Or on the border from Bolivia to Chile. Lucky once more.

But first we had a look at norther Argentina culinary treasures: steaks, steaks, steaks :-)

The first steak in Argentina (one of many to follow) - 600 gramm bife de chorizo...

The first steak in Argentina (one of many to follow) - 600 gramm bife de chorizo...

Or liked his too

Or liked his too

So did Gaelle and Rieke

So did Gaelle and Rieke

Next evening: making use of the barbecue at our hostel

Next evening: making use of the barbecue at our hostel

A whole filet (800 gr) of the best quality bought in the local supermarket for 3 USD... the best meat I have ever eaten...

A whole filet (800 gr) of the best quality bought in the local supermarket for 3 USD... the best meat I have ever eaten...

Some interesting facts about Argentina and its steaks:

  • Until recently Argentina had a population of 96 million cows. With the current government putting a 35% export tax on beef (to keep farmers from exporting and making beef artificially cheaper in Argentina…) cow population has gone dramatically down and next year things might well be different on the beef market.
  • Argentinians eat an average of around 150gr of beef per day…
  • We bought whole pieces of fillet (= 800 gramms), the best of the best quality, for the equivalent of 3 USD, that is 2 EURO… If I remember right in Germany we pay some 40€ for a whole fillet piece
  • But it just tastes incredible. I am not a big meat eater, e.g. I very seldom buy meat myself for cooking, and I do understand vegetarians pretty well – but here it’s just something else… The good part is: they live happily out on the vast meadows until their time has come
Our Gourmee :-)

Our Gourmee :-)

But enough about food :-) here’s the fotos from our trip with the rented car to Cachí and Cafayate, amazing landscapes changing virtually every few kilometers:

Leaving Salta towards the countryside

Leaving Salta towards the countryside

Our car - no horn, doors did not always open, but it served us well

Our car - no horn, doors did not always open, but it served us well

Climbing up to the pass (4.000m)

Climbing up to the pass (4.000m)

On the pass

On the pass

Cactus fields

Cactus fields

Big ones

Big ones

Stopover in Cachi - beautiful little village

Stopover in Cachi - beautiful little village

A light lunch... Gaelle had apparently challenged the owner of the place by saying the pieces of fillet looked smaller than the ones we had eaten the evening before - what came to our table was "slightly" bigger than the usual portion. Though the local white and red wine he had proudly poured us in well enough too helped. And Rieke driving the 2 hours afterwards too :-)

A light lunch... Gaelle had apparently challenged the owner of the place by saying the pieces of fillet looked smaller than the ones we had eaten the evening before - what came to our table was "slightly" bigger than the usual portion. Though the local white and red wine he had proudly poured us in well enough too helped. And Rieke driving the 2 hours afterwards too :-)

From Cachi to Cafayate

From Cachi to Cafayate. At the car rental they had warned us about the bad roads - but actually this was almost better than most interstate highways in Peru and Bolivia

Vicuña farming

Vicuña farming

Church in (?)

Church in the little village Merced

The church from inside

The local hotel - in the 17th century home of some spanish governor

The local hotel - in the 17th century home of some spanish governor

Getting closer to the red cordillera

Getting closer to the red cordillera

Driving through sand formations - apparently this was sea ground millions of years ago

Driving through stone formations - apparently this was sea ground millions of years ago

...more stone formations

Ayer's rock Argentian version

Ayer's rock Argentian version

Red mountains on the left

Red mountains on the left

...blue mountains on the right

...blue mountains on the right

Our hostel in Cafayate

Our hostel in Cafayate

Next morning, driving past kilometers and kilometers of vineyards

Next morning, driving past kilometers and kilometers of vineyards

Then sand dunes

Then sand dunes

The big dune

The big dune

Mud formations (the former sea ground still) - was this supposed to the the "castle"?

Mud formations (the former sea ground still) - was this supposed to the the "castle"?

...or was this the "castle"...

...or was this the "castle"...

The monk

The monk

Looking down on the whole valley

Looking down on the whole valley

Looking for the entrance to "the Amphitheatre"...

Looking for the entrance to "the Amphitheatre"...

The amphitheatre

There it is

In the "devil's throat"

In the "devil's throat"

Beautiful trip, all this in 24 hours.

…and then we had to run for the bus to Puerto Iguazu already.

2 Comments

Filed under English

2 Responses to 18.-21.11.09: Salta, Cachi, Cafayate

  1. Jens

    Hola, some people told me that actually a lot of meat sold as Argentinian Meat is from Uruguay, I have to investigate this a bit more. By the way, how was it in Uruguay, I just have seen Montevideo and it is not that worth to travel there, but sometimes there are other reasons, like in my case….

    have a good time, I will be in Germany from the 19th, 2 weeks :)

    • In any case in Uruguay they are as crazy about their meat as they are in Argentina, only less known outside, so who know’s. From Montevideo we just saw the bus station :-) but for Uruguay in general I would say: if you want to have a calm, relaxing break from otherwise bit more stressy south america around, Uruguay is a good place to spend a few days. Super friendly people, highest standard of life we’ve seen in south america, good food, clean – well, everything. Naja, “nice people” da kennste ja ne ganz spezielle Kandidatin ;-) hoffe alles ist gut bei euch, wünsch euch ne schöne Vorweihnachtszeit und dir (oder seid ihr zusammen da?) ne schöne Zeit in good old Germany!!!

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